Archive for June, 2006

Chutney in between, public-police-politicians

For those who live in, work in, commute through, by or to Andheri West probably know of a small lane called Juhu Lane. It’s not a very popular street or locality like Lokhandwala or Juhu or Yari Road. But it is way more important. This little lane links the highway, S.V.Road and Main Juhu to each other. On one end of the road is S.V.Road, right across is the Andheri east-west flyover which leads to the highway, and on the other side is Gulmohur road which is actually the First road of Juhu, starting from Mithibai till Chandan Circle which further leads on to other popular hotspots like Lokhandwala, Yari Road and further North to Jogeshwari.

This little paragraph was just to explain the importance of this particular road to all those who are unaware of it. This road is at peak hours jammed from the beginning to the end. Choc-a-bloc with cars and autos and trucks and buses. There are commercial buses parked on the side of the road which further narrows down the road. Residents of this area have repeatedly appealed to the traffic chowky in front of the flyover to post a traffic-policeman at the Juhu end of the road. But there’s hardly one there. Ever.

Hence when a couple of nights ago, when returning from Juhu, I saw two policemen at the signal I was shocked. We were at the back end of the road. Trying to reach the S.V.Road end of it. After waiting for around 7 minutes my friend riding the bike kind of got frustrated. The two policemen were just not letting our side of the traffic through. Only the incoming traffic from the S.V.Road side was flowing through. When it first started the street was full of cars. But after consistently letting the traffic flow, the street totally cleared up. There were hardly 3 or 4 cars passing by after every 15 seconds. Which is very fast for Mumbai standards.

Drivers were getting impatient. People were tooting their horn. There were two lanes on this side that were blocked and not being let through. From more than 10 minutes now. All of a sudden, another traffic police bike rides up, and off pop two more traffic policeman. Just a second later one more Khakhi policeman rides up too.

This junction which rarely ever has just a single policeman on duty had 5!!!! Horns were honked more persistently. It was over 20 minutes now. Since we were onthe bike, we were in the front line of the traffic. I caught one of the havaldars talking to the other. From the conversation all I could catch was “road.. bandh…mumble..mumble.. saamne wala line chalu”. When I reported this to my already agitated friend he rode up to them and asked if the line we were in was closed off. The traffic-policeman said something incoherent. My friend took it to mean yes and drove up, took a U-Turn and joined the line opposite us, which was also packed and waiting to enter Juhu Lane. We were now jammed in the opposite side still waiting to enter the street.

Another 5 minutes passed. The traffic policemen were still not allowing any vehicle to pass through, while the incoming traffic was still open with barely a few cars breezing through. The khakhi Policeman procured a walkie talkie out of nowhere and started yapping on it.

Now it made sense to my friend. “A minister is coming through this lane,” he remarked.
“Crap”, I said, “How can you be so sure??”
“Look out” was all he said.

10 more minutes. Everyone around was getting terribly impatient. We had all been standing at one spot for more than 35 minutes now. No one has that kind of free time in Mumbai. It was after 9 in the night, and getting later by the minute. People had to reach home, I had to reach home.

Finally, a few more minutes later, two Police jeeps cruise by, followed by a white contessa with dark black windows. Everyone heaved a sigh of relief and gunned up their engines. “Now at least we’ ll be let through”. The police still hold the traffic back. Someone hurls a few choiciest of hindi badwords directed at the police and the ministers and the politicians. The policemen ignore it.

10 more minutes. Two more police qualis’ speed by, followed by two white Ford Ikons and two more qualis’. People are yelling out collectively at the government now. A press car follows.

Before the Polocemen can move out of the way, all the cars and vehicles pour into the street. It had been an hour since they were helplessly watching an empty street in front of them. When I stoped by to ask the Policemen what was the problem, they say, “agar tum sab ko rok ke nahi rakhta to saala minister log hamko naukri se nikaal deta. Aur tum sab ko rok ke rakho, toh public gaaliyan deta hai. Ham toh beech mein chutney.”
(if we wouldn’t have stopped your traffic the minister would have removed us from our jobs. And when we follow their orders, the public bad mouths us. We are stuck in between the two). The policemen also used some colorful language to express their position along the lines of the badwords that had been thrown to them by the public earlier, which I dont think I should be mentioning here.

Turns out, some minister’s or high strung politician’s wife was entertaining guests from some exotic country and wanted to take them for a movie to a posh theatre in Juhu. Hence orders were given out to the policemen to keep the road they were going to be using totally traffic free. They could hold up which ever other road was necessary to be held. The guests had to catch their movie on time.

What a hospitable country we are, are’nt we??

Encounter at The Gateway of India

When you are entertaining guests from abroad, they always want to see The Gateway Of India. Funny how small silly Indian things satisfy them so. When we proceeded to the Gateway, it was pretty crowded for a thursday mid-afternoon.
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After appropriately ooh-aahing they spotted a mehendi-wala ( maroon dye put on the palms in an intricate fashion) and the two girls and me included ofcourse had some done on our hands. Not the instant Mehendi. but the traditional paste. The man had just finished with the palm of one of my guests and was doing some on my forearm, when his aide started packing everything up. I looked at him questioningly and he said, “madam, police log aa rela hai” (madam, police men are coming this way). He assured me that he would take the money i owed him and promptly disappeared. I guess he mingled into the crowd since his entire stall had been packed into a small duffel bag.
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Along came strolling a middle-aged policeman, with a typical pot belly and twirling a baton near his knee. Most of the vendors had run harrum scarrum and only a few were boldly standing in the policeman’s line of vision. I was wondering why they were not packing and running too because no one is actually allowed to hawk or peddle things and articles on the Gateway grounds.
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The policeman-hawaldar by his looks- reached upto the big colddrinks stall smack behind the Gateway and in front of the sea. “Salaam saab” the owner said loudly. The hawaldar nodded.
“Khaana khaya kya saab” (have you had your lunch sir)
“Haan haan bas bas” the hawaldar says. (yeah yeah, enough)
“Kuch thanda du kya saab?” the man nonchanantly offers the policeman.(should i give you something cold to drink sir?). “Hmm-mm, dhandha kaisa hai?” (how is your business?)
“Bas aap ki dua hai saahib” ( its going good because of your blessings sir)

and he walks on. My mehendi wala is staring at the sea a little away and making a face. He looks like a normal lower class man whiling away him time at the Gateway, which is neither a crime nor a punishable offense. While the hawaldar is still strolling i went up to the mehendi wala to pay him, and questioned him. “Aap sab kyu bhaag gaye aur woh frooti wala kyu baitha raha? Woh hafta deta hai kya??” (why did all of you run away while the vendor selling frooti stay on? does he pay money {??extortion??} to the police?) I had guessed that that must be it, but I wanted to confirm once anyway.
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“Madam”, he replied, ” hafta toh ham sab dete hai. Ham 100 rupya ek din ka dete hai, aur woh 300-400 deta hai.” (madam, even we pay money. But we pay only 100 rs. everyday while that guy gives 300 rs. everyday)
By now another man was hovering near by who put in his two penny worth too. “madam, ham log garib hai, din mein 300 kamate hai, police ko 300 denge toh ghar kya le jayenge. Uske upar toh yaha ke gundo ka haath hai. Woh unka damaad jo hai.. Isliye police aati hai toh bhaag jaate hai, bhale ham hafta toh har din ka dete hi hai. ” (we are poor people. we earn 300 in one day, if we give that to them then what do we take home. That guy has the local goons protecting him and paying for him. because he’s their son-in-law… thus when the police arrives we run away, although we pay them money too.)

I left them to go take pictures of the police, by now a lady constable has joined the earlier hawaldar. They first thought I was just taking normal pictures so they did not pay much attention (also I just had a cellophone in my hand to take the pictures from), but I guess I could not cover myself well enough, or maybe the frooti-wala informed them that I was taking their pictures. Which led them to think that I am journalist or something. And thus they hurried away from there.
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The mehendi wala came and thanked me. “madam, aap se darr ke woh log jaldi bhaag gaye nahi toh hamara aaj ka business kharaab hota” (they(police) ran away quickly because they got scared of you, else our business for today would have decreased.)

I though this was highly ironic!! But I was pleased no doubt. If calculated there were around 30 vendors in the Gateway premises, if they give a minimum of 100 bucks daily they give 3000 rs to the police men daily. That means Rs. 90, 000 for 30 days!! Go figure!!

Name on rice, anybody?

This one is outside the Jehangir Art Gallery at Kala Ghoda, but you can find similar artists who print your name on rice, nearly all over Bombay. Besides names, they write messages, sometimes even letters all over a grain of rice. This work requires great expertise and a firm hand. After the message is written, the rice grain is kept inside a vial filled with a liquid and sealed. The liquid is really some ‘acid’ so the writing does not dissolve into it.

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Here is the detailed price chart. Quite fair, I say. The longer your message, the more difficult it is to fit the same on a grain of rice, the higher the price. I find the messages to be very funny. Mumbaiites are very romantic people.

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A close up.

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Everything comes for a price. Want your vial on a keychain. Pay up Rs 10 more.

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Ofcourse, everything is negotiable :-)

Chor Bazaar

A series of excellent images of the Crawford Market, Chor Bazaar, Mohammed Ali Road, area by powerblogger and good friend Manish Vij. Manish brings us a spanking new blog Ultrabrown, and after his rise to fame at Sepia Mutiny, this is another great blog.

Check out all the pictures here.

CNBC show on reservations: be part of the audience

[VIA Youth Curry]

A panel discussion on the reservations issue is to be telecast on CNBC TV 18. Profs from 4 IIMs are flying down to Mumbai to be part of the panel and provide objective data.

If you’d like to participate in the discussion – raise issues/ questions – do join in as part of the audience. You don’t have to be an alumni from IIMs or IITs, just someone who has a viewpoint to express.

The discussion is on SATURDAY JUNE 3 2006
between 3 and 4 pm at:
CNBC TV 18 studio,
Empire Mill compound,
Senapati Bapat Marg,
Lower Parel, Mumbai

You would have to be there by 2.30pm

Please do confirm if you’d like to participate by calling or emailing:
Rajjat Gulati – +91 98333 60158 – rajjat@gmail.com

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